Last November I slept outside in Kvalvik, on the northernmost tip of Kvaløya, listening to the whales blowing all night. When the morning dawned slowly, I could see the humpbacks parading by, and they all seemed to be going to Musvær. Since that morning, I have wanted to go there too. Yesterday was our chance; the weather-forecast was right, the logistics were in place, and everybody was ready for an adventure.
We came to Bellvika early, loaded the ferry with military precision, sent the group to the upper salon to look for whales, while I went downstairs to buy waffles.
Soon everybody were out on the deck of the ferry, pointing at humpbacks and orcas, and shouting excitedly: “See, there is one! Humpback to the right! Orca! Look! Look! Over there!!!!” I must admit I was the one shouting the loudest.
As we were landing in Vengsøy, a large group of orcas were hunting just meters from the ferry landing, and as we unloaded the kayaks, we watched the orcas go about their business right beside us. We could really study them, they were so close.
From the Vengsøy harbour we headed due north to the low-lying archipelago of Musvær. We set our course for a nice, white coral beach, and were amazed by the combination of coral beaches, green waters and snow-clad mountains.
We walked up on a all hill to scout for whales, but there wasn´t a whale breath in sight. The view was exciting, however, and we spotted a beautiful lagoon that we wanted to enter into.
At last it was time to head home
We made it back to Vengsøy early, and I saw that a lot of boats were delivering fish to the local processing plant. Ailet and I skated over on the icy roads, and asked politely if we could buy some fish for dinner. They had both cod and haddock, but I spotted three baby halibut, and asked if I could buy those, and happily paid the 300 NOK they wanted for six kilos of halibut straight from the ocean.
While we were waiting for the ferry we walked over to the local shop where we bought coffee, some flour for dusting the halibut before frying, and some beautiful handmade mittens and socks as souvenirs. Whenever I take a group out, I try to make a point of supporting the local shops and industries. If you want them to be there next time you’d like a coffee when kayaking, you need to support them now.
Back in the cabins we had rented in Lauklinnes we dusted pieces of halibut with fluor flavoured with salt and pepper and fried them in butter and oil, and we served them with mountain-potatoes baked with herbs and salt, baked root vegetables and tahini. An international dinner for an international crowd.